DMA cards have gone from a niche piece of hardware to one of the most searched topics among competitive PC gamers. As kernel-level anti-cheats like Vanguard, ACE and Easy Anti-Cheat became stricter, more players started looking at hardware that keeps everything off their gaming PC. This guide explains what DMA cards are, how they work, how to choose between models and firmware, and what a complete setup actually costs in 2026.
What Are DMA Cards?
A DMA card (Direct Memory Access card) is a PCIe board built around an FPGA chip. You install it in a free PCIe slot of your gaming PC, and it reads the computer's memory directly through the PCIe bus. That data is then sent to a second computer, where the software that uses it runs.
The key idea is separation. The gaming PC only sees a hardware device; the software that reads and interprets the data never runs on the machine that the anti-cheat is scanning. This is why DMA cards are often described as the safest approach against kernel anti-cheats.
The Parts of a DMA Setup
- The DMA card, installed in the gaming PC.
- The firmware, which makes the card appear as a legitimate device.
- A second PC or mini PC, which runs the software.
- A fuser, optional, to display the overlay on the main monitor.
- An input box such as a Makcu or KmBox, optional, for mouse input.
75T vs 100T: Which DMA Card Do You Need?
Most DMA cards on the market are built on Artix-7 FPGAs and come in two common sizes: 75T and 100T.
75T DMA Cards
The 75T is the classic entry point. It handles games with compact maps and small lobbies comfortably, such as Valorant, Fortnite, Apex Legends and Call of Duty multiplayer modes.
100T DMA Cards
The 100T has a larger FPGA, which means faster reads and more headroom when a game has a lot of data to process. It is the better choice for data-heavy games like Rust, Escape from Tarkov, large Warzone lobbies, Battlefield and Delta Force. A 100T is faster, not safer: detection depends on firmware and behavior, not on FPGA size.
Why Firmware Matters More Than the Card
The card is only half of the setup. The firmware decides how the device presents itself to the system, and each anti-cheat looks for different things. That is why serious sellers offer firmware in tiers matched to anti-cheats:
- Entry tier: BattlEye, Ricochet and low-tier Easy Anti-Cheat (Tarkov, DayZ, Call of Duty).
- Mid tier: every EAC tier and EA Javelin (Fortnite, Rust, Apex Legends, Battlefield).
- Top tier: Riot Vanguard and ACE (Valorant, Delta Force).
Quality firmware is usually a 1:1 emulated build that is unique to each customer. Shared or public firmware is the most common reason DMA setups get flagged, because the same signature appears on thousands of machines.
DMA Fusers and Input Boxes
Most players do not want to look at a second monitor during a fight. A DMA fuser solves this by merging the image from the gaming PC with the overlay from the second PC, in hardware, and sending one picture to the main monitor. Standard fusers cover 1080p up to 240 Hz and 1440p up to 165 Hz; high-end models support 1440p 240 Hz, 1080p 360 Hz and 4K 120 Hz.
A DMA card also cannot move the mouse. For that, players use an input box such as a Makcu or a KmBox, placed between the mouse and the gaming PC, which sees it as a normal mouse.
What a DMA Card Setup Costs
A bare DMA card typically starts around $170 to $180. Complete starter kits, which include the card, every cable and a speed-test firmware, usually start just under $400, and some include a mini PC so you do not need a second computer. Firmware is priced by tier, fusers range from roughly $220 to $700 depending on resolution and refresh rate, and an input box like the Makcu costs around $50.
Stores such as LunarCheats list all of this in one catalog, with DMA cards, starter kits, firmware tiers, fusers and the Makcu on a single page, which makes it easier to compare and build a complete setup.
Common Mistakes When Buying DMA Cards
- Buying the card before checking the firmware. The firmware decides which games the setup works on.
- Choosing a 75T for data-heavy games. If you might play Rust, Tarkov or Warzone, the 100T avoids a second purchase.
- Sourcing parts separately. Mismatched cables and drivers cause most first-time setup problems; a starter kit avoids them.
- Skipping the fuser in fast shooters. Looking at a second screen is too slow for Fortnite or Apex fights.
- Assuming hardware means zero risk. Firmware quality and gameplay still matter.
DMA cards are no longer reserved for a handful of enthusiasts. With the right card for your games, firmware matched to the anti-cheat and a clean setup, they remain the most robust way to keep software off the gaming PC. The key is to choose the firmware first, then the card, and to buy from a seller who supports the whole chain.